I land in Madrid mid-day and spend it with a Spanish friend I know in Israel who is here on vacation. He takes me to the outskirts of town, to a landfill transformed into lush bulbous hills looking out over the city. We stand on one of these tops and look down and across to the horizon, the sun is setting on the other side of Madrid and though it's getting colder and colder as we stand there, I feel I might finally be thawing.